Wireless Joint

I have a Verizon Wireless Jetpack pUDP that was activated in a ellipsis hotspot from walmart. I have it in a MOFI 4500 SIM4 (LMR400 cables with two wilson yagi antennas) and has been working great ever since. The reason why I need a modem is because I want a faster device with a higher CAT than 6. Preferably would love to have a CAT 16/18 because I want to utilize 4x4 mimo but CAT 12 could be fine. I can get Bands 2, 4, 5, 13, and band 66 I don't know because the MOFI doesn't have it available. I am being deprioritized around lunch time and sometimes harder at night. I get about 1-25 mbps down and about 0.4-5 mbps upload. I play Call of Duty Cold War (a big reason why I want an upgrade) with a ping of about 50ms-120ms, depends on the lobby (typically it's 60s-70s). I've done quite a bit of research and my plan is to get a usb to m.2 enclosure 4G 5G outside with an antenna then running a 10-12 ft usb extension cable in to a WG3526p then ethernet to my PC. I want to get the lowest amount of db loss I can to get the best connection. I would also like to try other carriers, Sprint is pretty good out here so maybe Calyx, and might as well try AT&T and T-Mobile (their map says limited strength for band 71 and n71). Don't want my plan to be cancelled because it's retired and its all I got for internet besides my phone. Thank you all for the help and recommendations.

Hey, welcome!

I would 100% go with a WG3526-P, gigabit POE router, and use the Quectel EM160 inside the router. No usb adapters, no long cable losses. The USB3 enclosure/adapter is really only good if you are CERTAIN you will be getting over 500Mbps, all the time.

USB cables up to 10-12 feet would be ok for MAYBE a 2x2 MIMO cat 12 modem, but I have never been able to get a 4x4 mimo cat16 or above to stay powered under load over USB. The cables just don't support it. The powered cables work backwards and defeat the purpose you are trying to accomplish. I have been working on that type solution for a while and it is VERY limiting.

Place the router and modem in an enclosure outside with your antennas.

I would do this:

The best outdoor router enclosure : https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/router-enclosur ... enclosure/

WG3526-P POE gigabit router : https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/routers/lte-routers/wg3526-p/

EM160 modem : https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/modems/quectel- ... m-2-modem/

Mini-pcie to M.2 adapter in the router : https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/pcie-m-2/mini-p ... card-slot/

MHF4 to Type N bulkheads to attach the modem to the case for short antenna runs : Qty 4 x https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/cables/pigtail- ... in-25cm-2/

Short cables between modem and antennas : Qty 2 x https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/cables/antenna- ... traight-2/

Full spectrum 600Mhz - 3800 Mhz LPDA antennas : https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/antennas/4g-lte ... l-antenna/

POE++ injector: https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/power-adapter/p ... -1-5a-72w/

All you would need is a good outdoor rated ethernet cable.

Also, here is an alternative modem option that doesn't need the mini-pcie adapter in the router, and is CAT 18: Telit LM960A18 modem: https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/modems/telit-mo ... -lm960a18/

I often wonder why people bother with POE instead of simply running a wire for 120vAC along with the ethernet cable. These things do not have high amp draws so you could get away with small gauge electrical wire (depending on total run). 3 amps at 12V is only .3amps at 120V.

Didneywhorl wrote: Sun Jun 06, 2021 10:30 am Hey, welcome!

I would 100% go with a WG3526-P, gigabit POE router, and use the Quectel EM160 inside the router. No usb adapters, no long cable losses. The USB3 enclosure/adapter is really only good if you are CERTAIN you will be getting over 500Mbps, all the time.

USB cables up to 10-12 feet would be ok for MAYBE a 2x2 MIMO cat 12 modem, but I have never been able to get a 4x4 mimo cat16 or above to stay powered under load over USB. The cables just don't support it. The powered cables work backwards and defeat the purpose you are trying to accomplish. I have been working on that type solution for a while and it is VERY limiting.

Place the router and modem in an enclosure outside with your antennas.

I would do this:

The best outdoor router enclosure : https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/router-enclosur ... enclosure/

WG3526-P POE gigabit router : https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/routers/lte-routers/wg3526-p/

EM160 modem : https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/modems/quectel- ... m-2-modem/

Mini-pcie to M.2 adapter in the router : https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/pcie-m-2/mini-p ... card-slot/

MHF4 to Type N bulkheads to attach the modem to the case for short antenna runs : Qty 4 x https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/cables/pigtail- ... in-25cm-2/

Short cables between modem and antennas : Qty 2 x https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/cables/antenna- ... traight-2/

Full spectrum 600Mhz - 3800 Mhz LPDA antennas : https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/antennas/4g-lte ... l-antenna/

POE++ injector: https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/power-adapter/p ... -1-5a-72w/

All you would need is a good outdoor rated ethernet cable.

Also, here is an alternative modem option that doesn't need the mini-pcie adapter in the router, and is CAT 18: Telit LM960A18 modem: https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/modems/telit-mo ... -lm960a18/

Hello! Thank you very much!

How does the intsy Connect establish stability with it's setup then? My build was inspired by that one, I liked the idea of having the usb cat 16 modem outside.

Can I use the shorter pigtail cables instead of the LMR200 at 5ft? I don't need cables that long.

I have experience with yagis, I don't like them, would it be okay to use a wavefarm MIMO Panel or the The Wireless Haven or comparable 4x4 MIMO antenna? We are surrounded by tall trees and I saw for my area a panel antenna would be better.

This makes me concerned, I feel like the poe injector would cause loss and a latency spike, would it or would it not?

You mentioned the two modems I wanted to get thank you. I did see a The Wireless Haven forum where a guy had his Verizon pUDP and the Telit LM960A18 together and the modem was banned when the user attempted to use it, do you know anything about that? Thank you for you help and advice.

MattB29 wrote: Sun Jun 06, 2021 1:12 pm I often wonder why people bother with POE instead of simply running a wire for 120vAC along with the ethernet cable. These things do not have high amp draws so you could get away with small gauge electrical wire (depending on total run). 3 amps at 12V is only .3amps at 120V.

There have been BIG changes in PoE, can now get 100W out of a Cat-6 Cable.

The main reason to use PoE is for a clearer setup and for safety.
Playing with 54V and not 120v outside in a wet environment.

Note there are many different types of PoE

http://www.poesystem.com/news/Difference%20among%20IEEE802.3af,at,bt,%20High%20Power%20PoE.html

I have read the only way to be sure your modem isnt banned is for verizon to have the device registered in their database under your account. You can call in and register the device. Simple. Of course if verizon has the device registered they will know what it is and most of the things like changing ttl and such likely wont work and you will be stuck using hotspot data.

There are other ways to get it registered but we dont discuss such things in here.

Dr-BroadBand wrote: Sun Jun 06, 2021 4:53 pm There have been BIG changes in PoE, can now get 100W out of a Cat-6 Cable.

The main reason to use PoE is for a clearer setup and for safety.
Playing with 54V and not 120v outside in a wet environment.

Note there are many different types of PoE

http://www.poesystem.com/news/Difference%20among%20IEEE802.3af,at,bt,%20High%20Power%20PoE.html

100 watt is rather pitiful. As to safety, Climbing up to install antennas and routing cables requires a knowledgeable person to accomplish. You do not work with it energized when installing or connecting things.

I think people are enamored of POE simply because of the one cable idea. Take for instance if you run 22ga TV rotator wire. You could easily have 200 watts. Or do it with outdoor 16ga extension cord and get a huge 1200 watts.

With any setup there are Pro’s and Con’s

Could use an extension cord and put the DC power brick out in the environment or keep the power brick (PoE Injector) inside.

Many of the user on this form are DIY type, it only it only take 10mA to stop your hart.

The thing you are powering should be in a weatherproof enclosure. Regardless of how you power it. By having a better power source than POE you can even consider adding fans for heat control.

Yes electricity is a hazard. No one should be doing things that they do not fully understand the consequences of.

ETA: It occurs to me that I may have not been clear about the extension cord idea. Outdoor extension cords are relatively inexpensive and you would cut off the plugs and just use as wire. Though you could also keep the male plug attached for simple indoor hookup. The cut off female side would enter your enclosure through a typical watertight cable access and than you would wire in a receptacle to power your various items.

The AC to DC converter (Wall Brick) is a switching power supply and they can
radiate large levels of EMI (Electromagnetic Interference) especially one’s made in china.

Putting a noise source in an enclosure with sensitive electronics is not the best solution.

Since most of these units are plugged into these wall warts already I doubt your EMI concern is that big of a deal. But Hey whatever a person wants to do.

I'm extremely confused right now, I don't feel like my questions have been answered, but I appreciate everyone chiming in and hopefully I can figure something out.

Sorry for the confusion, and getting off topic

Every setup is different with different challenges.

Would list your goals and budget, start out small and build / change your hardware as needed.
The hardest thing is the SIM/Data plan

A lot of this is trial and error, don’t be afraid to fail.
You can do this!! Just takes tenacity

Would contact the boys at the The Wireless Haven store.
They could help you get started of your path to the internet.

Use Cell mapper to help find what bands and carriers are in your area.
This will be key to what hardware is needed
https://www.cellmapper.net

Product Selection Support – The Wireless Haven
https://thewirelesshaven.com/product-selection-support

I think the power and supply idea has gotten taken out of context.

These routers are run with 12Watt to 48Watt power supplies in most cases. You can upgrade to more, but generally do dont see more than 12V 4A power supplies for these.

That said, upwards of POE++ 48V-78W poe injectors like: https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/power-adapter/p ... -1-5a-72w/ are MORE than enough to handle the power needs of a modem and router POE setup.

You can plug in more stuff, much simpler with a hard run power cable, but you can introduce AC power RF noise, but it might be worth trying to simplicity. I've done it, I liked the poe over a single cable better.


Lets not mislead people with non relevant information, though.

The OP didn't ask for all of this.


Back to the OP:

AlteredLogic wrote: Sun Jun 06, 2021 4:22 pm Hello! Thank you very much!

How does the intsy Connect establish stability with it's setup then? My build was inspired by that one, I liked the idea of having the usb cat 16 modem outside.

The intsy uses a cat 12 modem. and I haven't spent much time testing it, but the USB it comes with is 15' if I recall. It works, but I'll bet it has had few tests done at 3xCA on a high draw band pulling around 300Mbps. That is generally impractical, but again I test all that I can. I have found 10-12' optimal for max length on USB cables of the best quality.

AlteredLogic wrote: Sun Jun 06, 2021 4:22 pm Can I use the shorter pigtail cables instead of the LMR200 at 5ft? I don't need cables that long.

Yeah, you would just have to use a cable gland: https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/accessories/wif ... ble-gland/ to run the cables into the router, but pigtails are NOT made for outdoor use.

It would be better to ask for custom length cables. I find 3-5' to work best.

AlteredLogic wrote: Sun Jun 06, 2021 4:22 pm I have experience with yagis, I don't like them, would it be okay to use a wavefirm MIMO Panel or the The Wireless Haven or comparable 4x4 MIMO antenna? We are surrounded by tall trees and I saw for my area a panel antenna would be better.

I think the panels are WAY better in most cases when dealing with trees. I was defaulting based on your use and mention of the booster antenna.

AlteredLogic wrote: Sun Jun 06, 2021 4:22 pm This makes me concerned, I feel like the poe injector would cause loss and a latency spike, would it or would it not?

This assumes that ethernet cabling introduces latency spikes and losses. Not a thing at all. Whole buildings are run with it with no issues. moot concern imo. Using POE doesn't change the performance of the data over the cable, not worth worrying about anyway.

I've run these POE setups for years, with sub 30ms ping and gaming on multiple playstations, xbox's, etc.

AlteredLogic wrote: Sun Jun 06, 2021 4:22 pm You mentioned the two modems I wanted to get thank you. I did see a The Wireless Haven forum where a guy had his Verizon pUDP and the Telit LM960A18 together and the modem was banned when the user attempted to use it, do you know anything about that? Thank you for you help and advice.

I haven't seen a replication of this, and most with the pUDP hotspot plan have confirmed that they can use their SIM in jsut about anything, as hotspot is hotspot, it just works.

That said, Verizon can be pure buttholes about devices on their network. Lately people are running "magic" on their devices to look like a hotspot or phone that they also own. Modem identity crisis magic cannot be supported here, but it is possible on these modems.

Thank you Didneywhorl, yeah I was going to run the usb modem inside with a 10ft usb extension cable but if you think the WG3526-P would be okay and better outside in the The Wireless Haven enclosure that's cool too.

Pigtails aren't? I didn't know that, I got some outside hooked up to my LMR 400 cables so the cable can reach my router underneath the window. Oh yeah, another reason I wanted to do the usb cable was because I have to run the cord through my window and be able to close it, can't do any drilling or anything. Alright I'll take a look at that, found some LMR600 for 5ft, so maybe I can find 1 FT somewhere.

Yeah that's what I heard, thank you for confirming that, yeah I wasn't impressed with the yagis, and what do you mean booster antenna? I don't remember mentioning that, all I have outside is the two yagis in mimo setup hooked to lmr400 then to the pigtails then to my router. Sorry if I messed up somewhere.

No that's not what I was saying, sorry about that, I was saying that the adapter itself may cause it because the cable is going in one side and out the other, I thought there would be some sort of loss moving through that POE injector to the other side. If the router is outside then how would I get the wifi signal without adding a router and causing a double NAT?

I got no magic powers so I guess I'll have to risk it ha ha, okay I really like the idea of the Telit LM960A18 in the router instead of having to use a adapter. Thank you again for you help and advice. That's cool your a gamer too

Thank you to everyone else too and I hope everyone has a great day.

AlteredLogic wrote: Tue Jun 08, 2021 2:50 pm ... and what do you mean booster antenna? I don't remember mentioning that,

100% mixed you up with another dude, lol! Sorry!

AlteredLogic wrote: Tue Jun 08, 2021 2:50 pm No that's not what I was saying, sorry about that, I was saying that the adapter itself may cause it because the cable is going in one side and out the other, I thought there would be some sort of loss moving through that POE injector to the other side. If the router is outside then how would I get the wifi signal without adding a router and causing a double NAT?

Turn off the routers wifi, its meh anyway. Plug the inside cable into a managed switch, and add a real deal Access point. Way better anyway.

AlteredLogic wrote: Tue Jun 08, 2021 2:50 pm I got no magic powers so I guess I'll have to risk it ha ha, okay I really like the idea of the Telit LM960A18 in the router instead of having to use a adapter. Thank you again for you help and advice. That's cool your a gamer too

Gamers unite!

Magic = imei # tomfoolery

Thank you Didneywhorl again and everyone else in the post helping, it's all good lol, yeah I don't see myself needing the IMEI thing, Unite! Okay I do have a eero would that work? Also, I need to run the ethernet cable through my window and close it so would that be okay or would I need some sort of adapter to go underneath it to prevent damage of the ethernet cable? I can't drill holes or anything like that here.

A mesh router would work, just make sure the router has a different IP address, so there's no IP conflicts.

As far as the cable in a window, thats up to creativity.

For The cable in the window they make flat cables ….. could help

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W43PNY1/re ... UTF8&psc=1

Thank you Didneywhorl, I appreciate all the help and advice, I will see what I can do, have a good day and be safe.

Dr-BroadBand, thank you for your response, I'm not talking about a usb cable, I was talking about a ethernet cable.

Didneywhorl wrote: Wed Jun 09, 2021 2:49 pm A mesh router would work, just make sure the router has a different IP address, so there's no IP conflicts.

As far as the cable in a window, thats up to creativity.

Hello, I know this is a year later, hope your doing well, I ended up sticking with the mofi ha ha but now the modem port broke so I definitely need something new now, do you still recommend the same setup as before for competitive gaming?

The lm960a18 is not in stock right now and so I guess I'd go with the EM160R?

I wanted to try a 5G modem but US Cellular 5G is bad (4 down 1 up, 80ms ping) and I'm on fringe T-Mobile 5G Extended Range so I don't know if I can even get it (tmobile store wouldn't let me try the home internet) so not sure if it's worth spending extra. What are your thoughts? I have about $700 to work with.

I also wanted to talk to you about how the POE setup with antenna and router in one enclosure would do outside on a pvc pole coming from inside the house and the potential lighting strike risk of having that equipment outside together and what I can do.

Today, I for cat18 in place of 5G and plug and play I would go with the new LT18 router: https://thewirelesshaven.com/lt18



If you want to build a unit that can later be upgraded to 5G then yeah I would say the same thing with the EM160R-GL instead.

You can still do the LT18 in an outdoor antenna enclosure build, and it actually fits in this antenna:
https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/anten ... connector/

You'll just need to use a PoE splitter like this:
https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/poe/p ... lug-tip-2/

and power supply:
https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/power ... gigabit-2/

The lightning risk is generally mitigated by proper grounding methods, check your local NEC codes on that for legit methods to the local regulations. I personally have not seen a single strike loss. The enclosures I use are 99% plastic non-conductive material.

Didneywhorl wrote: Mon Mar 28, 2022 10:39 am Today, I for cat18 in place of 5G and plug and play I would go with the new LT18 router: https://thewirelesshaven.com/lt18



If you want to build a unit that can later be upgraded to 5G then yeah I would say the same thing with the EM160R-GL instead.

You can still do the LT18 in an outdoor antenna enclosure build, and it actually fits in this antenna:
https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/anten ... connector/

You'll just need to use a PoE splitter like this:
https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/poe/p ... lug-tip-2/

and power supply:
https://thewirelesshaven.com/shop/power ... gigabit-2/

The lightning risk is generally mitigated by proper grounding methods, check your local NEC codes on that for legit methods to the local regulations. I personally have not seen a single strike loss. The enclosures I use are 99% plastic non-conductive material.

Thank you for all your continuous help throughout the months. I got a 4G intsy Connect (Quectel EM12) awhile ago and it did provide a uplift with the download but I believe Verizon itself has continued to decline unfortunately. I've been getting really frustrated recently because the connection just won't hold like it needs to while I'm gaming. I do live surrounded by tall trees and deep in a forest. Still haven't gotten my Starlink which says mid 2022 but my area is on a waitlist for 2023. I don't think the new RV version, which is deprioritized in waitlist areas, will work well with competitive gaming. I'm hoping I can test T-Mobile 5G soon with the home internet from a different address and take it to my house because the other realistic 4G option is Sprint with band 25 and 26. The LT18 is very interesting, I like that you can band select with it and put it outside, thank you for mentioning it and updating me.