Wireless Joint

Ok, so I'm going to post a butt ton of pictures here on how I put together a WG3526-P Router w/Sierra MC7455 Modem inside a DM25X19 Antenna. The pictures will be posted on this thread as a series of posts instead of one SUPER long single posting.

NOTE: It is recommended to build and configure the WG3526-P using the SMA LTE small antennas--prior to placing the PCB inside the antenna enclosure. Once the WG3526 connects properly to the internet, then install the PCB inside the antenna enclosure. This will help to better troubleshoot any possible issues while the unit is accessible from the ground.

NOTE 2: This tutorial can be used as a general guide for ALL enclosure builds, be it 4x4 MIMO antenna enclosures or just an outdoor enclosure.

Please bare with me as I spend all my free time trying to edit the pictures and post them as I finish them. The project itself is completely done and sitting on top of my house working in all its glory.

Please ask any questions about the process.

The following is everything I needed to do this:

WiFIX DM25X19 Antenna

NEXP1GO LTE Router, used to be the WG3526-P

Sierra Wireless MC7455 Modem or the Refurbished MC7455

POE Desktop Adapter 48V 1.5A 72W Gigabit

Router/Modem Recommended Build List

Tutorial on Configuring the WG3526-P Router and Modem

UPDATE: The Wireless Haven now carriers a full range of PoE Gigabit Power Adapters to include the 48V required for this project.

Here are a few of the things needed to get going, already listed above.

Getting started with the Router body. We gut the router...

More to come.... Bare with me.

Now we take off the antenna connections

Now pull the plugs out and gather up the hardware, and TADA!

Now time to remove the router board from its case.

We are doing this because, as you'll see later, we are going to mount the bare board INSIDE the antenna housing assembly!

You could just mount the whole router assembly in there, as there is plenty of space, but that has its own modifications that need doing, like adding on the LTE antenna pigtails and mounting them to the router case. Its also another layer of heat trapping.
But that's outside the scope of this tutorial; a different branch if you will.

Now to install the modem into the router

Don't overtighten ANYTHING that's made of plastic

Now to install the SIM card.

Dont be like me and forget to install the SIM card!!!

Sand off any odd points or irregularities so that the SIM will fit snug, but not too tight or too loose, in the adapter.

Next add the feet/standoffs to the board.

Remember ... PLASTIC! Don't over tighten, just real snug.

Moving on to the Antenna and enclosure assembly

I removed one of the ground wires and bonded the two halves together, but you can simply bond the two wires together if you wish.


Be sure careful not to damage the threads on the antenna ports, I left my caps on until I was ready to attach my antenna wiring.

So that we know where to place our router board, inside the case, we need to mark out where the antenna ports are and a rough center point between.

My marks arent exact, and yours dont need to be either. Point is to get a good approximation.

Power Tools time!

Lets mount the board inside the housing now....

Moving onto the LAN connection and more

Lets finish this long bugger up!


Don't forget! --> Programming the router and setting up the modem as well as troubleshooting is all included in the tutorials that Jim Helms has already done. This tutorial is simply a build tutorial.


If anything doesn't make sense to you, comment on here or message me directly and I'll help you as best as I can.

Thanks for the detailed witeup and tutorial, came in handy this weekend when I was doing my own build. One question, is what version of ROOTter you are running, I'm using the latest version (2017-12-15) and my modem details page doesn't include the SINR or modem temp. Also, as I was doing my pointing and tuning, I found that the modem was a bit finicky and wouldn't properly seek between bands or connect if it didn't have decent signal right after reboot, so wondering if there is a better version of the firmware out there.

mattvds wrote: Fri Apr 13, 2018 11:55 pm One question, is what version of ROOTter you are running, I'm using the latest version (2017-12-15) and my modem details page doesn't include the SINR or modem temp.

This is a firmware build one of our members put together. PM me if you need a link to the build.

Be warned, however, that re-flashing the firmware is a job best suited with the antenna on the ground--since router's WAN port in the switch (VLAN) was configured to act as a LAN. Updating the firmware will restore the WAN's functionality of being a WAN. This means you will no longer be able to access the router via Ethernet cable to LAN. The only work around is to access the router via WiFi (if it is enabled and using antennas) to reconfigure the VLAN.

Also, as I was doing my pointing and tuning, I found that the modem was a bit finicky and wouldn't properly seek between bands or connect if it didn't have decent signal right after reboot, so wondering if there is a better version of the firmware out there.

Note that aiming these type of directional antennas are akin to aiming a satellite dish. A small twist here can make a big difference there--which increases exponentially with distance. Without proper antenna alignment, there is no firmware that will keep the modem connected and/or from rebooting.

The signal strength indicator on Rooter's Network Status page is not a tool for aiming the antenna, but better used for fine tuning the antenna once it is aimed. It can be a tedious task since it only refreshes every 10 seconds, and it is very easy to skip over the optimal positioning while the stats are in between the 10 second update.

For better/quicker stats, you may prefer to watch the MODEM >> DEBUG INFO >> AT-COMMAND EXECUTION.

The best results will be obtained by first knowing exactly where and what degree heading the tower is positioned from your location. You can use [url=http://www.antennasearch.com/]Antenna Search[/url] for this purpose.

It is important to know that a cell "tower" may be leasing space to more than one carrier and their antennas. After entering your address, you will find it most useful to download the results for both the towers and antennas in csv format. This will allows you to sort and manipulate the data to better locate the towers you want to target.

Next, using Google Earth plot the longitude and latitude of each potential tower and draw a line back to your location. You will then be able to see each tower's degree heading in relation to your location. Once the degree is known, a smart phone with a compass app can better help better aim the antenna.

Once it is aimed, then use the signal strength and small bumps of the antenna (waiting 10 seconds before bumping again) for fine tuning.

I just recieved the notification for this....

That said.... What Jim said!

Very awesome tutorial, I'm actually interested in doing this if it's a good option for my setup.

I just recently got setup on Calyx and I already have a WG3526-P and MC7455 configured, but am currently only getting about 35-40% signal strength. Could this setup work for me potentially?

Also, what all is included with the antenna when purchased from The Wireless Haven? I see that the antenna and mounting kit are included, but I'm assuming the POE injector is separate, any recommendation on a good model injector? Same question for the mounting feet and rubber RJ45 protector.

Thanks for the tutorial, I'm hoping this can improve my signal strength.

Thanks!

This definitely helped boost my signal strength; once I figured out where my primary cell tower was so I could point at it properly.

The feet for the router board, the weatherproof LAN plug, and all mounting hardware comes with the antenna.

The Wireless Haven stocks the PoE power adapters.

I've reading a bit. My house is surrounded by trees, and apparently an omni directional antenna may be better for my situation. Might be the wrong thread, but do you have a good recommendation for omni antennas?

shroudedninja wrote: Tue Apr 17, 2018 9:49 am I've reading a bit. My house is surrounded by trees, and apparently an omni directional antenna may be better for my situation. Might be the wrong thread, but do you have a good recommendation for omni antennas?

Yes, this is the wrong thread. Please move your question to a new topic under the antenna help.

Didneywhorl wrote: Tue Apr 17, 2018 7:44 am The Wireless Haven stocks the PoE power adapters.

What are the PoE requirements of the WG3526-P? The one Didneywhorl references is 48v 1.25A 60w, whereas the one Jim carries is 48v 3A (watts not listed, but 3A X 48V=144w max?) Sounds like 60w suffices, but will it work with a switch that supplies PoE at 15w or 30w as well?

RichardVanManen wrote: Thu May 03, 2018 10:05 am What are the PoE requirements of the WG3526-P? The one Didneywhorl references is 48v 1.25A 60w, whereas the one Jim carries is 48v 3A (watts not listed, but 3A X 48V=144w max?). Sounds like 60w suffices, but will it work with a switch that supplies PoE at 15w or 30w as well?

The Manufacturer's recommended power supply when using the mPCI-E modem is 12VDC at 2.5 Amp. So yes, theoretically, a 30W PoE source at 48VDC would suffice. But again, the 12VDC/2.5 Amp recommendation assumes the adapter is plugged directly into the router's 12VDC plug--where voltage drop/loss would be minimal. And, I am unsure if it accounts for the actual power requirements of the MC7455 when under load.

I am sure there is a formula that determines the voltage loss over X feet using Y type cable to help arrive at the minimum requirements. I would suggest to err on the side of caution. Without adequate power to the MC7455 modem, you can expect random connection/disconnection issues.

This type of behavior is routinely witnessed when using the stock USB power cable with Mini PCI-E Adapter Black Enclosure.

mattvds wrote: Fri Apr 13, 2018 11:55 pm ... my modem details page doesn't include the SINR or modem temp.

The next ROOter release will display 'temperature' and modem 'connection protocol' at 'General Information' where temperature AT commands are known.

see https://forums.whirlpool.net.au/forum-r ... #r56486343

[img]http://www.ofmodemsandmen.com/pics/proto.jpg[/img]

WahroongaFarm wrote: Sat May 26, 2018 11:52 pm

The next ROOter release will display 'temperature' and modem 'connection protocol' at 'General Information' where temperature AT commands are known.

That will be some good stuff. Rooter just keeps getting better....

Great write-up, thanks!
Can someone post a link to source of those nice plastic standoffs?

The standoffs are included with the antenna. We also have the kit but is not yet listed on the store.

Great tutorial that I will probably follow. How much did this improve your signal strength and speed results as compared to before this set up?

It maxxed my signal strength solidly. My speeds were decent before, but now theyre effectively double, sometimes up to 100Mbps (Down) on tests with fairly responsive ping times.

Hello Didneywhorl,

I was trying to direct message you but it seems that it won't allow me to do so. I'm hoping you will be able to assist me and maybe give me some insight to what is going on.

I followed your build, I flashed the router to the GoldenOrb firmware and I seem to be having connectivity issues. I can see that the modem is connecting to the celltowers, but it's not actually giving me an internet connection. I have followed the troubleshooting guide three times over with no luck, maybe there's something I'm overlooking?

I do want to make it clear that I am also running Calxy and the SIM works just fine the in provided hotspot.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

You are not connecting to the Sprint network.

Notice the B4 (Band 4) and Deregistered.

Most likely the wrong APN or SIM card issues.

Refer to the TROUBLESHOOTING tutorial.

Or, retrace your steps to assure the modem is configured correctly. Refer to the CONFIGURATION TUTORIAL

Thanks for the reply!

I know that the APN is correct and I know that the SIM works fine, I've pulled it and placed it back in the hotspot and it works. I didn't see anything saying that the SIM from Calyx Institute needed to be unlocked for this to work, so I'm unsure of what to do at this point? I have ran through the troubleshooting three times over with no luck.

What APN are you using, and is it the correct APN being used by the device? This should be manually checked in the hotspot

I'm using Sprint's APN, r.ispsn. I checked that on my hotspot and it's using the same APN.

Just to beat the dead horse, make fully CERTAIN the SIM is completely flush in the adapter, with no bumps on the edges.

Also, what device is your hotspot?

Try swapping APN numbers for giggles.

Also, where did you get the firmware? I do not use the newest. I use one compiled by Wes on the facebook group.

Also can you post your LuCi modem status page info, block out the phone and Imei info though.

I did use the most current version of the software, maybe that's my issue. Do you have a link to the other firmware by chance? I looked around for it but I couldn't seem to find the same firmware you used. Give me a few minutes to post the images. Thanks so much for the help, I appreciate it!

Ill have to dig....

Anytime!

The mobile hotspot I'm using is a Franklin R910. I tried both of the APNs and I've no luck with that either, I'm super disappointed! Is this the page you're looking for?

I unfortunately cannot pull up the page for that because I don't have a Facebook. Is there anyway to post a direct link for me to download? or message me the link? Or do I need to setup a Facebook account? Once again, I sincerely appreciate all of your help and the tutorial you posted!

Ill look...

My R910 used n.ispsn

Its not even seeing your modem

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mp6msigz8azjy ... e.bin?dl=0

Im going to delete this in the morning, since its not my link

Thank you! I'm going to give this software a try and see if I have any luck. The router acts like it can see the modem, it just says that it's "attempting to connect" and it never does. The other thing that's strange is that it's connecting to a band and showing the signal strength, it's just not actually giving me an internet connection.

Okay, so I've officially flashed the router's firmware to the version that was used in the tutorial.
I placed my SIM back into the R910 hotspot and confirmed that the SIM is working the was using the r.ispsn for APN setting with a successful connection.
I then entered the same APN into the router and ran the appropriate commands. This is the current status of the modem...
I am actually picking up signal though, per the command prompt.
Any ideas on what might be going on? The SIM card is flush with the adapter, it's obviously reading the SIM in order to pick up the signal that it's showing, right?

Sorry guys, I'm very, VERY new to all of this.

Well, for starters, that is not a Sprint tower you are connected to. You can tell because Sprint does not have any Band 4 towers.
If you enter AT!GSTATUS? a few times, you should see it cycle through a few carriers over the course of a few minutes. The modem will do this with no SIM or with a SIM that is not active.

To check you SIM, you can always run: That will return the ICCID of the SIM card.
If it cannot read the SIM, it will return: I would be curious to see the results of AT!LTEINFO=? when it is momentarily connected to a tower. That will display MCC/MNC which will tell you what carrier it is.

Also, lets see: If it doesnt look like this, that is the first place I would start. (From what I have read, always use Generic NVU, never use Sprint Specific NVUs).

I've been trying to get this thing to work all day! Thanks for the additional information, I do appreciate it.

When I run the AT+ICCID command, it does display the entire ICCID of the SIM card.
When I ran the AT!COBIIMPREF? command, it shows that mine is exact to yours.
I have moved my router to various different areas and for some reason I can't get it to connect to B41, B25 or B26, though I do believe I can only get B41 in my area. I actually connected to it on Friday night. What I don't understand though is if I have a Sprint SIM card, why would the modem connect the any other carrier? Is it because the modem isn't locked to the network? The other thing that blows my mind is that I can pick up Sprint and Verizon ANYTIME of the day with 2-3 bars, I can rarely pick up AT&T and never T-Mobile. If I remove the SIM and I place it into the Sprint hotspot I can get 2-3 bars in the EXACT spot where my router is. So how is it that this antenna is picking up AT&T and not Sprint? Once again, I apologize for the ignorance, I've never done anything like this before.

Just curious, but run the following commands, and show the results for each one:

Okay, so I have finally got it setup, but the speed is abysmal... I ran the commands you requested and here is the outcome.

Okay, now run:
And lets look at your signals

5MHz B26, ouch. That is gonna be an issue. Total peak bandwidth on a 5MHz carrier in 2x2 MIMO is ~37Mbps.
See: https://frankrayal.com/2011/06/27/lte-peak-capacity/

Your SINR and RSRQ are also very low. So the fact that you are getting terrible speeds is not at all surprising. You have about the equivilent of 1-Bar on the normal cell phone.
See: http://usatcorp.com/faqs/understanding-lte-signal-strength-values/



AT!LTEINFO? would be great to see while you are still connected.

Lets kill off B26 and see how that works for you: To undo band locking:

I am curious why you put the router board and modem into the antenna enclosure?

seems having the router and ports inside the house would save from buying another router? just asking. great write up. I am strongly considering doing this as my zte warp is really slow, and tired of buffering all the time.

doing research before I place my order to understand everything.

Short version: LAN cables are cheaper and more efficient than antenna cables.

Longer: The router is the place the modem is installed and interfaced. The modem is where the antennae are plugged in.
Antenna cables arent cheap and degrade quickly over length without spending a large sum on cables and equipment.

Since the modem and router are in the
housing, I only need 8" antenna pigtails. LAN cables can redily carry a good signal cheaply and with low losses over decent length.

I use a separate router simply because Im too lazy to configure all my wireless devices to the new router.

Thanks for the response. that was my guess, but wasnt sure...

Now, do you have any concerns about the equipment being exposed to temp extremes? I live in michigan and see -40 degrees to 100 degrees. should I be at all concerned about that with the router or modem hardware?

I doubt cold is a problem with any electronic. Heat has been well over 100F here and Ive zero issues.

Hi, thanks for the thorough tutorial!

What if one wants to build a system with the EM7565? Can the same router and antenna be used? If not, what options are available?

Realistically, would the speeds be different, or is the MC7455 not the bottleneck of the setup? My provider is Sprint (through Calyx) if that matters.

Exact same setup. Its been done by others. I need to buy one myself, just have yet to do so.

And thank you for the kind praise.

hackashaq wrote: Thu Aug 23, 2018 2:20 pm What if one wants to build a system with the EM7565? Can the same router and antenna be used? If not, what options are available?

The EM7565 is a M.2 (Key B) modem. The WG3526 has a Mini PCI-E modem slot (same as the MC7455 uses).

To install the EM7565 in the WG3526 requires a Mini PCI-E to M.2 Key B adapter.

Overlooked detail, sorry Jim.

would love to purchase one of these assembled. been waiting for dm25x19 from The Wireless Haven since i first read this post.
not sure if i'll have enough time when/if they restock. moving to rural property soon and family will kill me if there
isn't proper internet. is there any way you'd consider building another?

Sure. Send me a PM.

Congrat for this tutorial !

I'm based in France and found your forum looking around about EM7565 which is in transit with a WG3526 and tools I bought 2 days ago.

I discovered your site and wow this looking amazing idea.

I may try it now, thanks for your sharing.

^^

Thank you! Have fun with it, and ask any questions you have and we will try our best to help get them answered.

I have been building mine slowly but surely. Its pretty much built but I forgot to order cables to connect the antenna to the router, so I have to wait to finish it now. But that is pretty much the last step, besides me mounting and wiring it outside. So excited.

Awesome! Its super fun to build this.

I may have missed it, but are you placing the PoE injector indoors with your indoor router/switch? I do not see where you specified where you placed power. I was thinking I had to place the PoE injector in the enclosure, but now that doesn't make much sense, if I don;t need to.

No, its indoors next to my 8 port hub

Awesome build and tutorial!

Has anyone built anything similar for 700Mhz range? That seems to be my main frequency around here. I love the build and could use the empty box and add antennas externally. Just thinking the Cat6 is the way to go in my situation.

Thanks!

Thanks!
The antenna I use is setup for the range you saw, but Jim at thewirelesshaven.com sells a similar flat panel antenna that is broad range. Exact same install.

-Didney

Appreciate the info!

I'll reach out to them, I looked but didn't see it on the site. I either overlooked it (quite possible) or it's out of stock at the moment.